PACIFICRETAIL FIXTURES

Guides

How to Install Gondola Shelving

Most stores install gondola shelving themselves: two people, hand tools, and about 30–45 minutes for the first section — faster for each one after. Pick your run type below and step through the build at your own pace, or press Play for the narrated walkthrough — each step is read aloud while the part animates into place.

chalk lineparts staged end-to-end
1

Mark your line

Snap a chalk line on the floor where the FRONT of the kickplates will sit — leave about 1 5/8" between the wall line you measured and the chalk line for the kickplate recess. Stack cartons by part type and lay uprights and kickplates end-to-end down the run.

The tools you'll need

  • Rubber mallet
  • 4-ft level (plus a string line for runs over 12 ft)
  • Tape measure + chalk line
  • Large flathead screwdriver (for the base levelers)
  • Step ladder for units 72" and taller
  • Drill with masonry/wood bits — only if wall-anchoring

No nuts, bolts, or special tools — gondola parts lock into slots. The mallet and the screwdriver (for the base levelers) do almost all the work.

The full written steps

Wall Unit8 steps
  1. 1

    Mark your line

    Snap a chalk line on the floor where the FRONT of the kickplates will sit — leave about 1 5/8" between the wall line you measured and the chalk line for the kickplate recess. Stack cartons by part type and lay uprights and kickplates end-to-end down the run.

  2. 2

    Base shoes into the first upright

    Insert a base shoe into the bottom of the upright on the aisle side. The shoes don’t need to lock yet — they seat when the upright is raised.

  3. 3

    Raise it and lock the shoes

    Raise the upright to vertical and push straight down — the base shoes lock in. If a shoe doesn’t click, step firmly on top of it.

  4. 4

    Second upright + spanners

    Raise the next upright one section-width away and connect the spanners between them (top, center, and lower; tall units add a splicer spanner). Both spanner tabs must show below the slots — never hammer a spanner down.

  5. 5

    Slide in the back panel

    Slide the back panel down into the channels from the top. Lower it gently — don’t drop it onto the lower spanner. Repeat uprights, spanners, and backs down the rest of the run.

  6. 6

    Kickplates on

    Finish the remaining sections, then snap the kickplates in from the front. The small notches at the kickplate corners go at the TOP.

  7. 7

    Level the run, then anchor

    Pull the kickplates to your chalk line. Run a string line across the tops, find the highest upright, and bring every other upright up to it with the base-shoe levelers (turn with the screwdriver). Wall units should be secured to the wall — clip into studs on drywall, or use masonry screws on block.

  8. 8

    Shelves on

    Drop in the base shelves and sight down the run to check alignment. Then hang the upper shelves at your planned heights — brackets must seat fully in the upright slots. Load heavy items on the base shelf.

Island (2-Sided)7 steps
  1. 1

    Mark the floor

    Islands are freestanding, so mark both faces. Keep 42–48" of clear aisle between runs (36" minimum for accessibility). Stage parts along the run.

  2. 2

    Base shoes — both sides

    Insert base shoes into both sides of each upright. A double-sided unit stands on pairs of shoes — never load a side that has no shoe.

  3. 3

    Raise uprights + spanners

    Raise the first upright, push down to lock the shoes, then raise the next and connect top, center, and lower spanners. Spanner tabs must show — no hammering.

  4. 4

    Backs down both faces

    Slide back panels down both faces of each section. On long runs (6+ sections), install a back in the last section early to stabilize the row while you work.

  5. 5

    Kickplates, both faces

    Snap kickplates onto both faces of the run. Corner notches go at the top.

  6. 6

    Level to the highest upright

    Pull the run to your chalk line, string-line the tops, and level every upright to the highest one using the base-shoe levelers. When done, upright levelers should sit about 1/4" clear of the floor. Islands normally stand free — anchor only if your height or local code requires it.

  7. 7

    Shelves on, both sides

    Install base shelves on both faces, check alignment down the run, then hang upper shelves at your tier heights. Balance heavy loads across both sides — a badly one-sided load can lean the run.

End Cap6 steps
  1. 1

    Start at the end of a run

    An end cap is a shallow single-sided section that faces the main aisle from the end of an island run. It hangs off the run’s end upright — assemble the run first.

  2. 2

    Upright + connector

    Stand the end-cap upright with its base shoe facing the aisle and connect it to the run’s end upright with the end-cap hardware (H-channel or spanners, per your kit).

  3. 3

    Back panel

    Slide the end-cap back panel down from the top, same as a run section.

  4. 4

    Kickplate + trim

    Snap on the kickplate (toe kick), then the trim covers over the connection to the run, and the top caps.

  5. 5

    Level to match the run

    Adjust the base-shoe levelers so the end cap sits level and flush against the run — shelves should line up with the run’s shelf lines.

  6. 6

    Shelves on

    Drop in the base shelf and hang the uppers. End caps get the most shopper eyes in the store — merchandise them with high-margin or promo items.

Before you start: unloading smart

Your shelving arrives palletized on a freight truck, knocked down in cartons. Unload with the labels visible and stack cartons of the same part together — you'll build in this order: uprights & base shoes → spanners & kickplates → back panels → end covers → base shelves → upper shelves & accessories. Opening boxes in build order keeps the floor clear and the crew moving.

Safety & loading rules

  • Two people make this easy — one holds, one sets. Back panels and tall uprights are awkward alone.
  • Never install shelves on a side of an upright that has no base shoe on that side.
  • Make sure every bracket and accessory is fully seated in its slots before loading.
  • Load heavy merchandise on the base shelf; keep upper tiers lighter and balanced.
  • Don’t climb on shelving, and never move an assembled run while it’s loaded.
  • Check local building codes — some jurisdictions (and any unit over 96") require floor anchoring; seismic areas have their own rules.

Planning a store? Price your shelving first.

Configure your runs and see the price instantly — every quote ships with these instructions.